This is my ongoing saga of transferring tapes to digital. I have been making some rapid progress. I now have all the equipment and all the software I need.
One remaining problem.
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e284/Griffinit/I-stationpowergap2.gif)
Smudgy drawing....but..... as you can see the AC adaptor - DC Jack cable (X) is too short to reach from the power socket to the speakers/dock. The power socket (labelled extension socket) cannot be moved as it has other things attached to it which need it to stay where it is. And there's no other power point.
So, I thought perhaps I could get an extension lead to plug the DC jack into and then at the other end of the extension cable to plug into he DC IN point.
See red cable below. This is what I need.
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e284/Griffinit/I-stationpower2.gif)
I found https://sslrelay.com/s75376715.oneandoneshop.co.uk/sess/utn;jsessionid=154b8d4bc7af534/shopdata/index.shopscript?main_url=https%3A%2F%2Fsslrelay.com%2Fs75376715.oneandoneshop.co.uk%2Fsess%2Futn%3Bjsessionid%3D154b8d4bc7af534%2Fshopdata%2Fproduct_overview.shopscript
It's <quote>One of a range of low voltage DC extension cables for use with power supplies for products from security cameras to laptop computers.
Is it the right thing?
Next question, if it is, how do I find out if I have 2.1mm or 2.5mm ? I suppose as they are cheap I buy both sizes.
Wouldn't it be easier to use a second extension cord? This may or may not be safe. DC cable would be safer, presumably, but harder to get.
Okay.
1) Do you have a Radio Shack within driving distance? Or something equivalent? Basically, take your wall-wart (power-supply) with you, and try the various connectors in the store, to sort out which is which.
If that is not an option, you *could* make a 1:1 picture of it. Put a ruler next to your plug-end. Orient the plug directly at your camera. Snap as close as you are able, and still focus.
Now, using your ruler, zoom in and out your snap, until the photo-ruler is the same size as the real one.
Now. You can take a fine-MM ruler and actually measure the end of your plug-- it's easier on the paper image, than on the plug itself. Edit: you don't even need to print-- use your screen itself, zoom in and out, the picture until the ruler is the same size as the real one. Then, measure the image on your monitor with a good mm ruler.
As for 2.5, 2.1? I'm sorry to point out, that there are also 3.0, 3.5, 3.1, 2.7, 2.0, 1.9.... etc, etc, etc.
But wait, it's worse than that, Jim-- I'm a Doctor, not an engineer: the center-pin comes in a variety of sizes, TOO. <gag> From 0.5mm right up to 3 or 4 mm on the very largest ones (but those are rare in personal electronics).
*sigh*
Bob, any thoughts on just getting a second regular extension cord to bridge the gap with the existing DC adaptor, safety-wise? You're more electrically inclined than I am. Remember that it's 220V or something in that area instead of the N.American standard.
Quote from: Agujjim on March 02, 2010, 10:07:29 PM
Bob, any thoughts on just getting a second regular extension cord to bridge the gap with the existing DC adaptor, safety-wise? You're more electrically inclined than I am. Remember that it's 220V or something in that area instead of the N.American standard.
I had assumed she did not wish to use such an obvious 'fix' for whatever reason(s).
But, there's nothing inheriently wrong with using a quality extension cord between the wal-wart and the mains power-- wal-warts typically pull milliamps or at worst, an amp--- tiny current for any quality extension cord.
For safety, the cord could be encased inside a PVC water-pipe, if desired, or secured to the wall/baseboard with tape or clips. I've done this many times-- my favorite method, is to use strips of plastic salvaged from packaging, wrapped around the cord, leaving a "flag". Then I staple through the flag into the wall/baseboard, taking care to miss the cord. Works like a charm. 2" (4cm) and 1/2" (1cm) wide on the strip works best-- and thin cardboard, or heavy paper works as well. But, I'm partial to the clear plastic-- it blends better.
As for casing the cord within the pipe? That does take some prep work-- you need to slit the pipe with something. I use my table-saw, but this is not always available. However, if you can borrow one, set the blade-height to 1/2 the diameter of the pipe. Set the fence over to 1/2 the diameter also. You'll have to remove the anti-kickback thingy, as the pipe will be slit in one place only, along it's length.
Now, carefully start the saw, and slowly feed the pipe, holding it firmly against the fence, and down. Keep fingers away-- when you've cut about 1/2 way down the pipe, stop, move to the outfeed side, and slowly
pull it completely through. A helper is golden, here.
Once the pipe is slitted, you can push extension cords into it, protecting them from being stepped on, etc. Leave a bit of slack in the length of the pipe, to allow some freedom at either end.
I was thinking about a cord between the extension socket and the 'wart. So, we'd be looking at:
mains power -> extension socket -> extension cord -> adaptor
Are two extension cords in series an issue? Obviously, a single long-enough extension cord from the mains to the DC adaptor would be a better idea, but it's been stated that there's no other available power point (hence the need for the extension socket / power bar).
Cords are cords, so the tripping hazard with the extension cord is not likely to be any worse than with the DC extension (the extension cord would likely be more visible, if anything). I somehow suspect a table saw is not going to be an option here but I'm still mentally plotting an appropriate jig and push-stick to hold the pipe in place laterally and vertically. ::)
Griffin, how long of a gap do you need to bridge, in total?
Sorry Bob, I can't quite follow your measuring instructions !
On the other matter, the siting of the equipment and the current position of the extension (5 gang) socket is a wiring nightmare. There are shelves and books and a cupboard to negotiate, and that's before one reaches the bed (which is solid to the floor and immovable) where the wires have to feed through a gap to get to the 5 gang socket which is inside a kind of drawer that pulls out from the bed. And which I can just about get a hand in to put the plugs in and out and switch the power switch on or off. So no I don't want another extension socket - there's nowhere for it. It's going to be difficult enough to manipulate (and hide as much as I can) a DC extension lead.
1. Can you tell me if the url I posted shows a suitable type of lead?
I need to know.
Using an extra regular extension isn't a problem (not for this particular use anyway). Any reason why you wouldn't use another regular cord extension (in a serial fashion) Griff?
Quote from: Griffin NoName on March 02, 2010, 11:11:53 PM
1. Can you tell me if the url I posted shows a suitable type of lead?
I need to know.
Link did not yield anything-- perhaps because I'm not in the UK?
To measure the plug-- you need a reasonable digital camera that can get close enough. Cell phone is unlikely to be good enough.
Tape plug to edge of table, such that the plug-end is just at the end of the table, with the hole pointing into the room. Taping it's housing is good enough.
Next, take a ruler (metal, wood-- markings need to be clear) and tape it to the edge of the table, just below the plug, so that the flat ruler is just under the plug's hole.
Now. Standing with the camera looking at the table, move yourself back and forth away, until you are just into focus-- as close as you can get, but still in focus. A few snaps may need to be taken to be sure.
Next, upload the pic into your PC. Load it into a picture manager/viewer that has zoom in/out capability. Physically hold up your ruler to the screen, and adjust the zoom until the picture of the ruler is the **exact same size** as the physical one.
You have just created a 1:1 image of the plug. :)
Now, using your ruler's MM scale, carefully measure the diameter of the picture [on the screen] of the plug-end. It will be close enough.
Hope that is more clear.
Yes that is clear. I'll give it a go.
Zono, I thought I'd explained why a serial extension power extension was out of the question in the post above. There's no room for one.
Griffin, if you can't get a proper dc extension, it's not too hard to cut the dc wire and splice a length in. It's best to solder the joints. Stagger them, like this:
-------------*-------------------*--------------------------------
-------------------*--------------------*-------------------------
so they can't touch. If you can't get sleeving you'll have to insulate with tape, but ideally fix it from unravelling with a blob from a hot-melt glue gun. You aren't going to set the house on fire or electrocute yourself with the low voltage and current involved, but a short could destroy the wall wart.
BUT YOU MUST get the polarity right (not swap + and -). Often the wall wart's cable has a white tracer on one wire. If not, you need a multimeter. The inside of the dc socket is usually +, but check first. Also, there's usually a little diagram next to where you plug it into the docking station.
Don't try this if you are not confident, but it's a safe, cheap and easy fix if you can do it or get someone else to. A proper extension would be better, of course.
BTW When Bob sats 'Radio Shack', read Tandy in the UK. Also Maplins are excellent.
Griff, if you can take one end of the low voltage cable into an electronics shop and simply tell them you need an extension cord with a female connector at one end and a male connector at the other, the same size as the one you take in, they should be able to help you. At worst, they can tell you what size the plug is and then let me know and I'll make you a cable and mail it to you. Would only take a few days to get to you.
Quote from: DavidH on March 03, 2010, 10:55:03 AM
Griffin, if you can't get a proper dc extension, it's not too hard to cut the dc wire and splice a length in. It's best to solder the joints. Stagger them, like this:
-------------*-------------------*--------------------------------
-------------------*--------------------*-------------------------
so they can't touch. If you can't get sleeving you'll have to insulate with tape, but ideally fix it from unravelling with a blob from a hot-melt glue gun. You aren't going to set the house on fire or electrocute yourself with the low voltage and current involved, but a short could destroy the wall wart.
BUT YOU MUST get the polarity right (not swap + and -). Often the wall wart's cable has a white tracer on one wire. If not, you need a multimeter. The inside of the dc socket is usually +, but check first. Also, there's usually a little diagram next to where you plug it into the docking station.
Don't try this if you are not confident, but it's a safe, cheap and easy fix if you can do it or get someone else to. A proper extension would be better, of course.
BTW When Bob sats 'Radio Shack', read Tandy in the UK. Also Maplins are excellent.
Ha! I did **exactly** that, on an extended trip to Yellowstone a coupla years ago, with family. The battery on my brother's kid's portable DVD player died-- normally, you'd charge it via the cigar lighter up front, then the kids in the very back (a land-yact, something called a "suburbian"? With 3 rows of seats and luggage stowage behind that) could watch movies or "Little Einstein" shows. Alas, by day 4, the battery would not hold a charge through even one movie. They had the cigar-lighter charger which would double as a power cord, but it was way-short.
So. What to do? We were traveling via the scenic route, so no big-city solutions available. The fix? I sacrificed an extension cord I happen to have in my bag-- the ordinary kind, and cut and spliced exactly as you describe, the power cord. Band-aids served as both insulation and to hold it all together. Worked like a charm.
:D
McGivver would've appreciated the solution.
Some would be horrified, but I've done it to extend my just-too-short lawnmower lead (230V).
Offset soldered joints, very neat, with lengths of vinyl tubing slid over and fixed with hot-melt glue. Overall a long offcut of thickish plastic garden hose, the whole filled right up with hot-melt glue. Highly unofficial but as safe as houses; it's been fine for 3 years.
But you must not forget to slide all the pieces of sleeving on before you solder!
Quote from: DavidH on March 03, 2010, 07:23:32 PM
Some would be horrified, but I've done it to extend my just-too-short lawnmower lead (230V).
Offset soldered joints, very neat, with lengths of vinyl tubing slid over and fixed with hot-melt glue. Overall a long offcut of thickish plastic garden hose, the whole filled right up with hot-melt glue. Highly unofficial but as safe as houses; it's been fine for 3 years.
But you must not forget to slide all the pieces of sleeving on before you solder!
Hot glue is fine, but I prefer the flexibility of "sensor-safe" RTV or silicone glue. The blue formula will not corrode your copper wires (the sensor-safe ensures this), and it remains flexible over extended periods of time.
For sleeving, I prefer heat-shrink-- it's a sort of plastic, that when warmed with a hair drier or hot-air-gun, it shrinks to 1/2 or 1/3 of it's original size. If you slather silicone inside, before shrinking, you get an excellent, protected and
waterproof joint. Smaller heat-shrink tubes over each line, then a larger tube over the whole, re-creating the appearance of a continuous, one-piece wire. If you take care when soldering the joints, so as to not let them get too large? The finished diameter is similar to the insulated part, after shrinking the heat-shrink. The silicone will ooze out either end, I just wipe that off.
I've repaired many a damaged extension cord exactly this way-- as good as, or better than when new. And waterproof.
:)
Aggie - soldering is beyond me. Zono, getting to suitable shop is beyond me. Blue, thank you for the offer.
I attach below the leads from the URL no one can make work.
If I use one of these, do I have to worrry about + and - or is that only relevant if making a cable from scratch?
Bugger it for a game of solder, sez I... that's DavidH you want. ;D
Ah-HA!
Take careful notice of the description: "centre pin" is mentioned.
So. In your picture of the 1:1 plug you currently have, carefully measure the CENTER PIN within the hollow cylinder-- oh, poo-- the difference we are seeing is 0.4mm. You cannot do that by eye-- at least, I cannot. A micrometer at the least-- but the pin is recessed, and you cannot get at it. Bother.
Okay, let's try this a different way.
Post the model number(s) on your wal-wart (power-brick)-- just post everything on the label. Also the brand of the device it belongs to, including it's model number.
I'll see if I can find some specs for either the original device's requirements, or the wal-wart itself. Often, if you can had a replacement power thingy, it will specify the specs for the plug in it's description. Amazon stuff is good about this sort of thing.
Once you have the plug's specs, or the specs of a replacement wal-wart, we can choose which cord will work.
So. Look at the writing on your thingy, and on the label of your original device-- is it an iPod dock?
Let's see what we can find out from that angle.
---------------------------
Edit: is that the actual price I see? Two bucks apiece?
You could just buy both, and use whichever one works best... if the shipping's not killer that is.
Quote from: BobHot glue is fine, but I prefer the flexibility of "sensor-safe" RTV or silicone glue. The blue formula will not corrode your copper wires (the sensor-safe ensures this), and it remains flexible over extended periods of time.
For sleeving, I prefer heat-shrink-- it's a sort of plastic, that when warmed with a hair drier or hot-air-gun, it shrinks to 1/2 or 1/3 of it's original size. If you slather silicone inside, before shrinking, you get an excellent, protected and waterproof joint. Smaller heat-shrink tubes over each line, then a larger tube over the whole, re-creating the appearance of a continuous, one-piece wire. If you take care when soldering the joints, so as to not let them get too large? The finished diameter is similar to the insulated part, after shrinking the heat-shrink. The silicone will ooze out either end, I just wipe that off.
Bob, your techniques are clearly neater and more professional; just one snag - these things cost money! I'm a tight-fisted old beggar and if I can do a job with scrap from my garage junk pile, I will! (As long as it's safe.)
I agree that your version is preferable to a non-skinflint. :mrgreen:
Griffin - if you use a proper extension you needn't worry about polarity (+/-).
Regarding polarity: So long as the extension cable is wired so that the same wire is connected to both centre pins and the other to the two outer connections, then it does not matter which wire is which.
I ordered both as cheap. Hoping one will fit. We'll see.
Excuse me! Did someone ask about reversing the polarity?
(http://images.quizfarm.com/1143400349pertwee.jpg)
Quote from: pieces o nine on March 06, 2010, 03:53:31 AM
Excuse me! Did someone ask about reversing the polarity?
Have you come in here looking for that well known character DC Jack ? :mrgreen:
Quote from: Griffin NoName
Have you come in here looking for that well known character DC Jack ? :mrgreen:
I had to pop in here; I couldn't COAX him to visit me... :D
Sock it to me, baby! ::)
I'm not sensing any resistance to my threadjacking of your sensible conversation...
Resistance is futile... at about 2oK.
;)
Quote from: piecesI'm not sensing any resistance to my threadjacking of your sensible conversation...
Let there be no impedance to the flow of humour. Oh my goodness, no. :mrgreen:
Quote from: DavidH on March 08, 2010, 08:54:04 AM
Quote from: piecesI'm not sensing any resistance to my threadjacking of your sensible conversation...
Let there be no impedance to the flow of humour. Oh my goodness, no. :mrgreen:
Oh, henry: I'm all choked up about it. I no longer have the capacitance for any more laughing. I suggest we transition to another shell. This one has lost it's potential.
Ohm my, Watt have we here? Will we have to Volt over a large grid to get anode? The high tension if killing me!
Quote from: Bluenose on March 08, 2010, 09:30:46 PM
Ohm my, Watt have we here? Will we have to Volt over a large grid to get anode? The high tension if killing me!
Well. We could amp it up a bit.
But that would just hertz.
Overheated diodes, at what point we stopped alternating to become so direct and regulated? This surge could blow a fuse, if you catch my drift...
:update:
Neither of the cables fitted. :(
I think the female end is 1.5 mm diameter and the male probably the same.
All I can find are 1.5mm female to 2.5mm male adaptors which have a short cable between the male and female ends and the same for 1.5 male to 2.5mm female, so if I bought hundreds I could chain them altogether to make a long enough cable :ROFL:
The only possibility left is to find a replacement power adapter cable, which appears impossible.
Or.
To go for a version of the power extension suggested.
So, my next question.
What I propose is:
"2-Way" Socket Adaptor into wall socket.
4 gang extension socket plugged into one socket of the "2-way" socket adaptor (long cable goes to other side of room). (It is what is currently plugged into the wall socket).
iPod power lead/plug into other socket of the "2-way" socket adaptor. I think the lead is just long enough to reach.
This allows iPod dock/speaker power cable lead to be snaked through small gaps to the iDock station. It avoids chaining power extensions which I have no room for.........
Questions:
Is this safe? Given also that I will not be able to reach the "2 way socket adaptor" and wall socket as the wall socket is behind heavy furniture? Normally I like to have a swicth that I can switch off if needed.
Quote from: Griffin NoName on March 12, 2010, 01:34:46 AM
Is this safe? Given also that I will not be able to reach the "2 way socket adaptor" and wall socket as the wall socket is behind heavy furniture? Normally I like to have a swicth that I can switch off if needed.
Depends. If you put the power thingy for your iPod onto the extension thingy, you can always unplug it.
On the other hand? I have 5 of these things plugged in at all times, so far no problems.
Quote from: Bob in a quantum-state-of-faith on March 12, 2010, 04:20:13 AM
Depends. If you put the power thingy for your iPod onto the extension thingy, you can always unplug it.
No, can't. The 4 gang extension is over the other side of the room. Both it and the iPod i-station would be plugged into the "2 way adaptor" at the wall socket behind the heavy furniture.
See diagram.
Aaah. Can you get another 4-gang extension to plug into the opposite side of the adapter?
Most of those have a little "off" switch you can use to de-power anything connected to them. If you're worried about it.
Alternative, plug in a standard consumer-grade extension cord into the adapter, then the ipod i-station's power into that. Then you could unplug without moving furniture.
But plugging the ipad-s "wall wart" thingy behind furniture is not a good idea-- those power-brick thingys often need to be cooled by air, and behind heavy furniture would prevent that from happening. Before I did that, I'd use a standard household extension, or another 4-gang to get it out from behind.
Just my $0.02.
Hmm. I thought this might not be ideal.
The answer to plugging a 4 gang or a standard consumer-grade extension cord into the adapter, is no this would not work. There's nowhere for it to go. I did think about it, but just no room to put it anywhere. The only free place to put a socket with the i-station plugged in would be somewhere I regularly spill water and coffee. Not a good idea.
I have Yet Another Plan.
If I bought 2 adaptor cables (2.5mm male to 1.5mm female AND 1.5mm male to 2.5mm female) I could sandwich between them the 2.1mm extension cable which I bought but does not fit. See diagram.
Would this work?
Quote from: Griffin NoName on March 12, 2010, 06:01:31 PM
Hmm. I thought this might not be ideal.
The answer to plugging a 4 gang or a standard consumer-grade extension cord into the adapter, is no this would not work. There's nowhere for it to go. I did think about it, but just no room to put it anywhere. The only free place to put a socket with the i-station plugged in would be somewhere I regularly spill water and coffee. Not a good idea.
I have Yet Another Plan.
If I bought 2 adaptor cables (2.5mm male to 1.5mm female AND 1.5mm male to 2.5mm female) I could sandwich between them the 2.1mm extension cable which I bought but does not fit. See diagram.
Would this work?
I see no problem with the double-cable arrangment. If you're seriously worried about water? Buy some name-brand electrical tape and tape up the intermediate connections. Just in case.
Thanks. I'll order the adaptor cables. They are cheap, less than £2, so it's worth a try.
:update:
The <power point> - DC cord - adaptor - extension cord - adaptor - <i-station> method has worked !!
I am using it and playing/listening to it now.
Have a lovely long thin lead I can now weave around all the obstacles.
Persistance paid off.
Thanks for all the help.
:woot:
Yaaaay!!!!
I can humbly suggest the following addition to your nacient collection:
<this is a live version, the recorded version is smoother and more subtle-- more instrumentation, too. The song is somewhat in from all the conversation. >
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nITGEhqhveM&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nITGEhqhveM&feature=related)
[youtube=425,350]nITGEhqhveM[/youtube]
Amazon MP3 (http://www.amazon.com/Winter-Song-with-Ingrid-Michaelson/dp/B001I3SU8M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1268793541&sr=1-1)
Yes, the live version is a bit garbled.
Well done, Griffin! ;D :thumbsup: